Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Can you recommend a shoulder rest?


The subject of shoulder rests has generated a lot of controversy amoung teachers and violinists. Because they were not used until fairly recently and also because they may affect the sound somewhat, there are still some teachers who recommend against using them at all. Certainly, there are some violinists who do fine without a shoulder rest. Often, these people have short necks.

David Oistrakh


For example, David Oistrakh, one of my favorite recording artists, fits this mold!
For the rest of us, a shoulder rest can make playing the violin much more comfortable. It frees the left hand from having to support the instrument and should allow the violinist to play without raising the left shoulder. The choice of shoulder rest depends on the unique physiology of each student. Sponges (even a kitchen sponge with a rubber band) and Play-on-Air are examples of padded rests.


Play-on-Air
Play-On-Air. Some teachers prefer rests that are not rigid, such as this Play-on-Air model. However, the sound can be affected by the pressure of the pad against the back of the violin.



There are also various rigid models with feet that are produced by many manufacturers. Each fits slightly differently.


Everest Shoulder Rest
Everest. The Everest is made in America and is relatively cheap. The padding is thick and the rest seems to fit well for medium to long necks. One model offers collapsible folding feet.

Bonmusica Shoulder Rest
The Bonmusica is made of flexible metal with a "hook" that can be molded to fit over the shoulder. It is a heavy rest that can affect the sound more than some but can work well for violinists who have not found any of the other rests to be comfortable.

Kun
Kun is the original inventer of the rigid rest with feet. There are several different models. They tend to fit most people fairly well but can be expensive.




Mach One Schoulder Rest
The Mach One is light and made of a nice quality maple. Some people find it very comfortable but it is rather short and the padding can seem slippery.




Wolf Shoulder Rest
The Wolf is an excellent rest for very tall necks, but can feel very rigid. Though it appears to have no curve, it can be bent to suit the player.





Viva Shoulder Rest
The viva comes in many colors and adjusts in two planes. This extra adjustibility allows it to accomodate certain violinists who have had difficulty finding a comfortable rest.



In sum, my recommendation for selecting a shoulder rest is to try several and look for a comfortable fit. In the case of the rigid models with feet, the pad should rest securely against your shoulder and collar bone without any gaps between you and the rest. Try to find a violin shop that has a selection of rests and will allow you to try them. Adiditionally, your teacher should be able to help you assess fit.

The Circle of Fifths: Circular Reasoning. A Key to Learning Music.

circle-of-fifths-for-photoshop
What is a Circle of Fifths diagram? It is a visual representation of the major and minor key signatures arranged in order of ascending and descending perfect fifths. On the Circle, the addition or subtraction of a sharp or flat to any key signature creates a new key that is either up a perfect fifth (in the case of addition of a sharp or flat), or down a perfect fifth (in the case of subtraction of a sharp or flat) from the original key. For example, the key of D Major has two sharps (an F and a C). Add an additional sharp (a G) to D major, and the key becomes A major -- which is up a perfect 5th from the original D Major. Take away a sharp from D Major, and the key becomes G Major, which is down a perfect fifth from the original key of D.

Logically, the Circle of Fifths diagram is circular in shape, much like an analog clock. When a sharp is added, the new key is placed clockwise on the diagram. When a sharp is removed or a flat is added, the new key is placed in a counterclockwise position relative to the previous key. Major and minor keys with the same number of sharps and flats are placed together.
The Circle of Fifths Diagram has many possible uses. The first and most obvious is to allow the student to determine the key of the music he or she is playing. If a piece has two sharps, a quick glance at the circle tells the student that the music may be in one of two possible keys: either D major, or b minor. If, instead, the music has four flats, the possibilities are either A-flat Major or f minor.

Another use of the circle is to help the student memorize scales. When learning scales, the student can use the circle to determine how many sharps and flats there are in any given key, and thus which notes must be "raised" or "lowered." He or she can also determine from the diagram how the keys are related. For instance, if the student memorizes that C major (and also A minor) has no sharps or flats, he or she can easily determine the key signature of any major or minor key simply by counting how many perfect fifths such key is away from C major (or, if minor, from A minor) -- or from any other reference key. For instance, suppose the student must determine how many sharps or flats there are in A Major. Moving clockwise, adding a fifth to C gets us to the key of G major. Then, a perfect fifth away from G yields D Major. Finally, a perfect fifth up from D Major yields A Major. (Intervals are counted including both the first and last note along with all notes in between). This represents three clockwise leaps of perfect fifth intervals away from C; thus, A major must have three sharps. (Had the student tried moving counterclockwise --or down sets of perfect fifths-- he or she would have encountered F, then B-flat, then E-flat, from which it would be impossible to ever reach A.)

A third good use of the Circle of Fifths diagram is to determine the relative major of any minor key -- since these are placed together on the circle and have the same key signature. Similarly, the dominant chord of any key is one clockwise step away from the tonic, and the subdominant (or IV chord), is one step counterclockwise removed from the tonic. Seeing these chords represented on a diagram can help the student understand basic harmony.

Of course, not every circle of fifths diagram is created equally. And, certainly, these concepts (that are rather cumbersome to describe in writing) are simply intuitive on well designed Circle.
I encourage every teacher and student to use the Circle of Fifths diagram to help with understanding of key signatures and with basic harmony.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Where can I buy First Frets

House of Note, a local violin shop in the Minneapolis Area, carries them. So does A to G Music, in Osseo Minnesota.

These have proven quite hard to find!

Lisa

I use dominants. Need strings for Guarneri pattern 19th century Scottish violin, I haven't played in years, muddy sound, weak E string.

Gold-label-e-string
Well, changing the e string is a good place to start. Dominant e strings are notoriously poor performers. I like jargar e strings, and also gold label e by pirastro. I think there is general agreement about this in the violin community.

For the other strings, it is harder to say. Are you having issues now with it sounding muffled and cloudy or is it too bright? What I would recommend would depend on which issue you have.

It sounds like a high tension string like a pirastro evah pirazzi would be a less optimal choice. On the other end, a lower tension string such as an Obligato might sound muddy if the intrument already sounds muffled. Visions can clear up a muddy sound.

I don't know where you live but here in Minnesota it is very dry and this can also really affect an older instrument and make it sound muffled and muddy, like it has a cold. If you are not using a dampit or other humidification system, you could try that. If the pegs are slipping, that is a good clue that the instrument is dry. If there is a more moist and cool area in your house, you could try storing the violin there.

Remember that "everything" affects the sound -- including your own playing. If you haven't played in a while, sometimes it is harder to make the violin sound as good as you could when you were feeling more confident.

Also, if the person who played the instrument tended to play out of tune, this too can affect the ring of the sound years later and the instrument needs time to re-adjust.

So maybe you could tell me a little more about how the instrument is sounding now (other than the e string).

Incidentally, changing the e string could change the way the other strings play, so that might make a difference too.

I need a portable rig for electric violin. Can you make some suggestions based on my current equipment?

electric-violinI
looked over your list of current equipment, taking into consideration that you have been told to treat my violin as though it were a guitar and your need for portability). Here is the list that you provided.

Boss (Chromatic Tuner)Boss (Chorus
Ensemble Pedal)Boss (Turbo Distortion Pedal)
Boss (Volume Pedal)Line 6
(Verbzilla)Gator Pedal Board (as I travel
extensively and need to be pretty
portable
electric guitar, and have already purchased the
following items:
Boss (Chromatic Tuner)Boss (Chorus
Ensemble Pedal)Boss (Turbo Distortion Pedal)
Boss (Volume Pedal)Line 6
(Verbzilla)Gator Pedal Board.

I do not necessarily agree with treating the violin like an electric guitar. Guitar is basically a mid-range instrument, and most equipment is designed for this frequency range. It can be quite difficult to render/EQ the higher frequencies violin uses without creating a sound that I would call one-dimensional and a little "empty."

Nevertheless, pedals are a good start. In my opinion ( and pat's, stern, etc) delays with some pitch modulation to spread the sound out are the key to enhancing any electric instrument, to sound "big" and project.

I recommend stereo rig to best utilize the pedals. I doubt a compressor would be of value, as violin is already naturally compressed.. A simple volume pedal should be more than enough. Need for eq depends on whether amps have enough eq. EQ is needed for acoustic guitar to notch out feedback frequencies. I tried Zeta's MIDI converter a while ago and wasn't sure it did a good job tracking the violin. As with any of this equipment, it is a good idea to experiment with it before purchasing, if possible.

Ideally, you would need to try everything and keep what you like.




I live in a remote area and it is hard to find an instructor. Any suggestion on how to practice and sound better and not just play notes?


I would suggest purchasing a beginner level book and, temporarily, starting over from the beginning. Good options are the Suzuki Method Books and also perhaps my Song Book series, which you can view or purchase here: http://www.simplyviolin.com/page10/page10.html.

For "starting at the beginning" the most suitable book in the Simply Violin series would be: Sing. Play. Learn. 80 Favorite Songs for Violin. For Suzuki, Books One and Two.

All of these books are also available at Amazon.com.

Starting at the beginning entails perfecting songs/pieces that you can play without difficulty and only advancing to the next song when the current one sounds exactly the way that you want it to sound. Since books like Sing. Play Learn and the Suzuki books are arranged in the order of increasing difficulty, you should be able to make progress through playing songs that are easy enough for you that you can focus on the basics. Playing music that is too hard is one of the biggest reasons for lack of progress.

I would suggest that you practice slowly and pay particular attention to bow placement on the string. Make sure you are drawing a straight and even bow and lead with the wrist. Make sure that you are not squeezing the neck of the violin with your left thumb. If you are having trouble finding the notes in first position I recommend using a product called First Frets. First Frets applies to your fingerboard and will show you the notes in home position. I have a local violin shop that carries them and I'd be happy to give you their information if you have difficulty finding this product.

Another good idea is to listen to recordings of great violinists, such as Perlman and Heifetz and to watch them on Youtube if you can absorb some of their technique that way.

Don't get frustrated if you don't sound good right from the start.

One thought would be to take a lesson even once a month or once every couple of months if possible. It is often difficult for students to see themselves and sometimes it takes a teacher to diagnose certain issues.

Best of luck to you.

Saturday, September 5, 2009

What kind of strings do you recommend? My violin is soft and has a high arch.


Strings are very personal things. There are so many to choose from and which set will work best for you depends on the individual characteristics of your violin and your playing style. Unlike chin rests and shoulder rests, you cannot realistically try all of the available options before you make your choice. Thus, you may find my review of strings to be, at least, a starting point for choosing a set. It is important neither to underestimate nor to overestimate the effect that different strings can have on an instrument. Sometimes, rather than trying several different sets, it makes more sense to evaluate other things that affect the sound, such as placement of the soundpost and bridge or maintenance issues such as cracks or open seams. In addition, strings have a synergistic response; hence, it is usually best not to mix sets, with the exception of the e-string.
Fingerboard and strings

There are many different types of strings on the market today, but most of them fall into three main categories: 1) steel strings; 2) gut strings; and 3) sythetics designed to sound like gut but which are designed to offer a quicker response without the need for frequent tuning, and 4) a gut and synthetic blend.

1) Steel strings have a very quick response but also a thin, one-dimensional sound. Most violin e-strings are made of steel, but apart from that, steel strings on not a good option for a classical violinist and should not even be considered for the a, d, or g strings.

2) Gut is the origninal material used for violin strings. Gut strings have a warm, complex sound and were used exclusively until the introduction of synthetics in the early 1970s. These strings are typically wrapped with different metals to improve volume and responsiveness, which was certainly a large improvement over the plain gut strings that were used in earlier centuries. Gut has two rather limiting properties. The first is that the strings simply will not stay in tune. Sometimes they even need to be re-tuned several times during a performance. The other issue is that gut strings have a very slow response. For these reasons, gut strings have largely fallen out of favor. The two most popular gut strings still in use today are both made by Pirastro. These are the Oliv set and the Gold Label. The Gold-label e string is tan excellent choice and is used in combination with many other string sets.

3) Synthetic strings were introduced in the early 1970s as an alternative to gut. The first synthetic string released was Thomastik-Infeld's Dominant line. The a, d, and g consist of a "perlon" (plastic) core wrapped in metal. In several ways, these strings were a huge improvement over gut. First, after requiring a few days to stretch, they stayed in tune, often for days at a time. Second, they had a very quick response. 3) they were much more responsive and coulld tolerate much more bow pressure. For these reasons, sythetic-core strings have largely replaced gut and are the choice of most professional violinists, including soloists. One of the first to adopt synthetics was violin soloist Itzakh Perlman, whose gorgeous tone is evidence of how beautiful the synthetics can sound. (Perlman plays the Bruch Concerto, Movement 2). Dominants "dominated" the synthetic string market for many years, and it took a long time for other companies to launch competing string sets. In recent years, we have seen sythetics with many different core materials from kevlar (Corelli) to a material used for tennis racket strings (D'addarrio zyex). Because most violinists are always searching for a better sound, the new synthetics have gotten a lot of attention but have not necessarily been improvements over the time-tested Dominant string. In my opinion, Pirastro's relatively recently released Evah Pirazzi string set marked the first excellent alternative to Dominants, and has replaced Dominants for many soloists. (Pirastro won't tell us what the core is actually made of!)

4) Pirastro has recently released a string that falls into a fourth category, namely a combination of gut and synthetic. This string is called Passione and will be included in my review below. The image below contains pictures of all of Pirastro's current string sets!

Pirastro String Sets

A few final general hints about string selection: Be careful when you experiment with strings. Each time you change a string, the stability of the bridge is disrupted. If the bridge should lean too far it could snap or collapse. This could cause the wood in the body of the violin to crack. Also, strings needs time to break in. The final sound and responsiveness are usually apparent within 3 to 4 days. Thus, it is generally not wise to judge a string by its initial sound.

Below is my review of strings. It is not a complete list. I've included commonly available strings with which I have a reasonable amount of experience, either as a teacher or as a performer.


Dominant Strings
Dominant strings, recognizable by the purple winding in the peg box, are the original synthetic core string and have a perlon core. They have been considered the industry standard for many years. Dominants are fairly bright and sound good on most instruments. However, the e-string is generally considered to be weaker than the others and is often replaced with a Pirastro gold e-string. Itzakh Perlman is well-known for using Dominant strings throughout most of his career. These strings are a good place to start for almost any violin. Occassionally, players complain of a slightly metallic undertone to the sound.


Infeld Red and Blue
Thomastik/Infeld, the manufacturers of Dominants, released Infeld Red and Blue as an attempt to update its brand following the introduction of a myriad array of synthetic core strings that were brought to the market to compete with Dominants. However, these strings have not been particularly successful and probably do not represent an improvement over the original Dominant String. Therefore, I do not recommend purchasing either of these two set

Pirastro Passione
The Passione string by Pirastro is a relatively new addition to the market and a very interesting one. Because it combines a synthetic core with traditional gut, it is advertised as having the sound of gut and the stability of synthetic. In reality, I think pirastro has reached a reasonable compromise with this string. It is definitely not as stable as most synthetic core strings, but does have some of the warmth of gut. However, it is one of the most expensive sets on the market today. These strings can be helpful, though, for a violin with a high arch because of the lower-tension.

Evah Pirazzi
The Evah Pirazzi set, by Pirastro, has become the darling of soloists across the globe. It is very powerful and bright. However, on a violin with a high arch, these strings can be so tense as to basically crush the sound. Additionally, on instruments that are already overly bright, these strings can sound quite harsh. The greatest soloists of our era certainly need a huge, powerful sound. But for the rest of us, a different string might be a better choice. In fact, I have seen more than one violinist have his bridge collapse when putting on these strings because the tension is so high!

Thomastik Vision
Vision strings, along with their brighter siblings, vision titanium strings, are Thomastik/Infeld's response to the Evah Pirazzi. The Titanium Solo is very bright and tense. Some players feel the sound is slightly metallic. But some luthiers swear by using the "vision titanium orchestra" strings to bring a soft, highly arched instrument back to life.


Pirastro Obligato
The Obligato string, by Pirastro, is another synthetic-core string that is similar to the Evah Pirazzi, but with a slightly slower response and a darker sound. The Obligato was created to compete with gut strings. It is a very popular string and somewhat similar in sound to the Pirastro's Passione set.


Pirastro Tonica
Tonica strings, by Pirastro, were also designed to compete with Thomastik/Infeld's Dominants. They are cheaper than Dominants but tend to be less powerful and are more dark. It is possible that they tend to wear out more quickly than other strings.



D'Addario Helicore
Helicore strings, by D'Addario, are wound strings with a steel core. They are amoung the few steel strings that sound quite good on many instruments. Because of the steel core, they have a very quick and pleasing response.


Pirastro Violino
Violino set is also by Pirastro, and represents another attempt to compete with Dominants. They tend to have a sweet tone, but with less projection than Dominant strings. They can be a good choice for an instrument that tends to have a harsh sound.



There are many other string sets on the market, but those listed above are amoung the most popular.

Choosing an E-string is a different story. Almost all e-strings are made of steel. Some are wound, but the majority are not. Most steel e-strings can be combined with any set of strings. A few of the most popular are Pirastro Gold Label, Hill, Westminster, Goldbrokat, and Jargar. Since e-strings are relatively cheap, it is reasonable to try a few, since each one will tend to sound different from one instrument to another. Certainly, however, the Pirastro Gold Label has been considered the gold standard for decades.

Pirastro Gold Label Violin E
Pirastro's Gold Label e-string has been used for decades in combination with almost every string set and tends to have a smooth, lush, but powerful tone. It is the benchmark against which all other e-strings are measured.



Getting back to your original question, for a soft violin with a high arch I recommend either: Pirastro Passione or Obligato with a Gold label e-string; or Vision Titanium Orchestra with matching vision titanium e string. Strings usually come in several different gauges. Commonly, light, medium, and thick. Often, a soft violin with a high arch can benefit from a lighter tension. Conversely, stringing a violin with a high arch with a higher tension set of strings can seem to choke the sound entirely.

Remember that finding a luthier you trust is essential to keeping your violin sounding as beautiful as possible. He or she can recommend strings to suit your instrument, and can also make sure that your instrument is not in need of repairs that are affecting the sound. As one wonderful luthior once told me, "What affects the sound? The answer is: EVERYTHING!"