How to Rosin Your Violin Bow

Rosin is the reason that we are able to produce sound on the violin, creating friction that allows the bow to grip the strings. Without rosin, the bow will glide over the stings as if sliding on ice. This article provides a guide for how to apply rosin depending on whether the bow isn't gripping the strings at all, has just been re-haired, has areas that do not play evenly, or, is currently playing to your liking.

If the bow has just been re-haired, it may have been rosined by the shop before it was returned to you (using either a cake or rosin powder), or it may not have any rosin on it at all. If the bow is not playing at all when it is returned to you, you will want to use short targeted strokes against the cake of rosin, to slowly work the rosin into the hair, for the entire length of the bow. This may take a bit of time (which is why the shop will often use a powdered version, which can be applied much more quickly).

The same technique can be used if your bow does not seem to be playing at all and is sliding on the strings, even when it has not just been re-haired.

On the other hand, if the bow is already rosined and plays to your liking, then you can just use a couple of swipes, the entire length of the bow.

If there are just one or two spots on the hair that you notice don't play evenly or don't play at all, you can use short strokes with the hair on the rosin just to target those specific spots. However, if the reason for these slippery areas is that the hair has become dirty or oily (particularly at the frog, where your hand may rub against it frequently), applying rosin usually will not correct this problem and the bow may need to be re-haired or at least cleaned by the violin shop.

It is important to be very careful not to use to much rosin. This is a common problem that can result in a scratchy sound. You should not see any white powder coming off the strings and bow when you play. Rosin also tends to build up on strings (especially when one has used too much) and therefore it is important to wipe them down after you play.

Is acceptable to rosin in both directions for bowed strings (except for bass).

Super Sensitive Clarity Spectrum Rosin for Violin and Viola

Violin rosin has been used to draw sound from the violin since the first instruments were carved from wood hundreds of years ago. Historically, rosin has been made from pine resin, a natural substance found in trees. Many different companies manufacture rosin, and each variety tends to have different characteristics that affect the sound -- shading the tone toward bright or dark, and adding varying degrees of "grittiness" to the feel and sound. Further, choosing the "right" rosin is largely a matter of personal preference. Although it functions well most of the time, pine resin does have some limitations -- it can crystallize in the cold, damage the varnish on the violin if left to sit, and often cracks or even shatters rather easily. Also, pine resin is an allergen for some, and can cause sneezing and watery eyes during playing in susceptible people.

Supersensitive Clarity Rosin for Violin and Viola is the first synthetic rosin I have seen that is a viable replacement for pine resin. Formulated to by hypo-allergenic, it does not damage varnish. Further, it is not affected by humidity nor does it absorb moisture, which helps it keep its tackiness without cracking in all seasons. But, most importantly, this rosin actually works nicely -- and, when played, seems indistinguishable from ordinary rosin (although its characteristics must be evaluated by the individual player). Using my setup, this rosin produced a smooth tone without much grit and nice clarity. However, every player has different preferences in feel and sound of rosin so no single brand is likely to suit every taste.

As a teacher, I have noticed that many of my younger students enjoy handling and applying rosin to the bow, and so the fact that clarity rosin comes in colors (pink, red, blue, green, and purple) gives it a modern look that is especially appealing to youngsters. Also, young students are more likely to over-apply rosin and also not to wipe the instrument clean as frequently as necessary to prevent ordinary rosin from damaging the finish. Thus, this colorful rosin can also help extend the life of the instrument.
Though I have not found a synthetic substitute for horse hair (or for my wood violins for that matter) that functions as well as the original, this rosin does appear to be a viable substitute for pine resin, and one that adds a little fun and color into the mix as well.

Simply Violin: 90 Sacred Songs, Hymns, and Spirituals

As a violin teacher, I try not to underestimate the value of teaching music that students know and enjoy, especially for beginners. While the Suzuki classics such as Gone With the Wind, the various selections by Suzuki himself (such as Perpetual Motion), and early music by Bach and Handel may satisfy some, there are, in my experience, many students left uninspired.
Many students have requested music by John Williams or other movie or television themes. Unfortunately, these are often quite chromatic and difficult, and the available music often cannot be played in first position or is quite awkward (having not been edited specifically for violin).
Indeed, forming a connection with a student relies, in my opinion, on providing music that inspires. Also, for youngsters, familiar music is usually far more palatable. It is tempting to shy away from teaching religious music such as Christmas songs and, year-round, sacred music such as hymns, spirituals, and Sunday School songs. Yet, for many students (and parents), this music has the potential to inspire, and often is both recognizable and, already, well loved. Examples of such music would be "Jesus Loves the Little Children," "Jesus Loves Me," "In the Garden," and, for specific denominations, selections such as "salve regina" or "A mighty Fortress." At Christmas time, good choices can be "We Wish You a Merry Christmas" or "Joy to the World."
In my experience, teaching sacred songs adds to the availability of familiar songs that can inspire students of all ages as well as engage parents. Since parental support and participation is, in my opinion, vital to the success of, in particular, the young student, it can be quite valuable to choose music that parents, as well as students, enjoy.
When choosing a book of sacred songs for beginners, it is important that it be edited by a violinist, and that, preferably, that it be scored to be played in first position. Choosing a book with either a duet part or a piano accompaniment allows the student to perform this music on his or her recital.
Of course, it is vital to be sensitive to the religious beliefs of the students and parents when offering to teach Christian or other sacred music. A gentle query into whether such music would be of interest has been, in my experience, sufficient to ensure that this is a welcome addition to the repertoire.

First Frets: a Review

Now here is a brilliant invention for learning to play violin. A decal that peels off a backing and is applied to the violin as one piece beginning at the nut as a finger marker for first position. First Frets are made of clear, one-piece, self-adhering vinyl that lays flat on the fingerboard with no tapes. Four differently-colored and mathematically accurate stripes indicate the correct placement of each of the four fingers in first position. No more tapes that slip, stick, and, peel off! Thus, as First Frets present such a welcome alternative to cutting, measuring, and sizing individual tapes that may interfere with the left hand and also cause unwanted buzzing, I have been using them for about two years for violins sized 1/10 through 4/4, and I prefer them to tapes.

First Frets usually work quite well when students are playing on violins that have been set up well. However, on occasion, I have noticed buzzing if the action is set too low and the strings are very close to the fingerboard. This is because, when you stick a decal under the strings against the nut, this reduces the space between the fingerboard and the strings and thus the decal rubs against the vibrating strings during playing. However, this problem can be fixed if the violin's setup is adjusted for higher action. This can be accomplished either by having a violin shop "plane" (cut down) the fingerboard, or raise the nut.

Another issue is that, depending on string lengths, the lines may not be exactly accurate in their positioning on the instrument. Again, this depends on setup and each violin is slightly different. One way to address this issue is to move the bridge so that the string length matches the spacing of the First Frets.

Sliding the First Fret decal under the strings without having it stick to the fingerboard in the wrong place somewhere along the way is easier than expected, and can be accomplished by violin teachers and students alike, if instructions are properly followed. However, teachers and violin shops that are experienced with installation usually find them easy to install. Also, the strings need to be loosened to some degree in order to apply the decal. Thus, care must be taken to prevent loosening of the strings to such a degree that the bridge falls down.
From my experience, as soon as a student is able to play in tune reasonably well, these decals can be removed.

Though certain issues must occasionally be addressed, First Frets do work well for the majority of students and violins. And, unlike tapes, they do not slide on the instrument, nor do they peel off and leave a sticky residue, or make the fingerboard feel bumpy and uneven. Thus, they are a vast improvement over ordinary tapes and, in my opinion, are worth a try, especially given that they are quite inexpensive to buy.

Using Flash Cards to Learn Note Reading on the Violin: Why Finger Numbers Aren't Enough

As a private violin instructor, I have witnessed many students who are unable to read notes. While one might expect this would be limited to beginners, players even at an intermediate to advanced level often struggle with reading music. Why is this the case? One reason is that beginners often associate notes on the page with finger numbers rather than note names. As a result, they often struggle with playing in positions other than first position, because the finger numbers are different from those they have already learned. For instance, the note B-natural in third position on the E string is played with the second finger, whereas, in first position, it is played with the first.

In addition, the concept that octaves consist of the same notes, critical to good intonation, is difficult to learn if a B-natural on the page is translated into a fourth finger on the E string, a first finger on the A string, and a second finger on the G string. Thus, students who read finger numbers rather than note names often have trouble with intonation in positions other than first, as well as difficulty locating the different positions.

In fact, it makes sense why students would learn to read finger numbers rather than notes when beginning violin. After all, this is sufficient for reading first position. Thus, it can be difficult for the teacher to realize that a student is not reading notes until that student needs to learn new positions. At this point, the habit is well established and can be quite hard to break.

Thus, learning note reading early is crucial to success on the violin. How to teach students this skill? One way is to use flash cards. Ideally, these should require the student to learn both note names and where these notes are found on the violin. However, students often find this task quite tedious. One way to make flash cards more interesting is to use ones that are colorful, or that incorporate pictures that are not related to note reading. It is important to use flash cards frequently, because, in the beginning, students will often count bar lines and spaces rather than recognizing notes at a glance. Yet, in practice, music goes by too quickly for this technique to work. Thus, teaching short cuts such as EBGDF (every good boy deserves fudge/ Ernie gave Burt dead fish) for notes on lines, and FACE for notes in spaces is useful in the beginning -- but, in the long run, it is important that students recognize notes immediately.

Teachers can assist in this process by asking students if they are reading notes or finger numbers, and by making sure they actually recognize the notes rather than counting lines and spaces. For students reading finger numbers, they can ask the student to use flash cards, and to name the notes during lessons.

What is Suzuki Method?

First, a brief hsitory of Suzuki method. The Suzuki method first came to the the United States in the late 1960s, and its official organization, the Suzuki Association of the Americas, was formed in 1972. As it existed in its early years, its proponents believed that all children could learn to play the violin if started at an early age, and that the learning process occurs through two primary mechanisms. The first is imitation, primarily imitation of the teacher. The second is group learning, consisting of group lessons and group performances. The suzuki books were put together for two primary reasons. First, to offer a structured program of pieces of increasing difficulty to use with each student over many years of their development; and second, to facilitate group learning by keeping everybody "on the same page" and able to play the same pieces together.

Suzuki Programs have been extremely valuable to the classical music community because they start children young, at the point when they are best able to learn (between ages 3 and 7), and because they have generated enough interest to continously attract new generations of students to playing violin (and other stringed imstruments). The Suzuki brand has become almost a household name, and thus a very marketable title for a violin teacher to hold.

But: The Suzuki books are not, by themselves, "the suzuki method." And, use of these books in instruction, even exclusive use, does not constitute Suzuki Method. The books are merely a means to an end. And they were were written originally to be played by the teacher and imitated by the student without the student ever actually learning to read music on his own.

Without the group component, the Suzuki books have lost much of their ability to excite today's students. The bulk of the "songs" are from the baroque period, and are written largely by such eighteenth century composers as Vivaldi, Bach, and Corelli. The look of delight I so frequently see on their faces when I tell students they can play something else is very telling.

I do believe in learning by imitation, but I also think explanation is very important too, especially for older children. Although I do have recitals for my students, I do not offer group lessons or group performance. Fortunately, this need has been largely met by school systems with orchestra programs. I do frequently use pieces out of the Suzuki books, especially for beginners, (Book 1 is particularly useful). But when I see in their faces that the music just isn't reaching them, I make other suggestions or allow them to make their own (appropriate for their level) selections.

Suzuki intended the books full of pieces of increasing difficulty to be an essentially complete course of instruction. However, I believe in the value of scales, etudes, and exercises as more focused ways to develop technique. Of course musicianship, musicality, and love of music comes from, (what else!) playing music. And, in my opinion, the music must inspire the student. My students play everything from Irish fiddle to music and church and holiday music. And from Andrew Lloyd Webber to music from Titanic and Harry Potter. The music from Harry Potter, after all, was written by the great John Williams, who also wrote the olympic fanfare, musical film scores for Star Wars, Superman, and E.T. In other words, some of the most memorable themes of our age.

However, for students who want to participate in competitions, or in the best community student orchestras, or even one day attend conservatory, it is necessary, eventually, to introduce works from the standard violin repetoire. Most of which are not in those Suzuki books!

As for me, I started playing violin because my mother turned on the television one day when I was 3 years old and was greeted by 100 tiny suzuki students playing twinkle twinkle little star together. The very next day she brought me to MacPhail Center for the Arts in downtown Minneapolis and enrolled me in their suzuki program. My teacher was Mark Bjork, who was then the President of the Suzuki Association of the Americas. It was an excellent start, and I would not hesitate to recommend participation in a full suzuki program.

A Review of Electric Violins and Equipment

First of all, find a studio and a teacher who has a lot of electronic equipment and understands how to use it -- and is also, of course, an accomplished violinist! I have been teaching and performing on electric violin for the past 7 years and I have a lot of equipment! My Orono location is home to a high-end studio complete with mesa-boogie stadium amp, high-end Lexicon reverb and delay units, and a host of peddles, acoutic amps, and other effects boxes (and, of course, stereo sound). I can even attach a mic to your acoustic violin with an AMT rigged set-up.

Learning to play electric violin shares many similarities with studying acoustic violin, with a few important differences. The first is that almost every acoustic violin is shaped and tuned the same way. Electric violins, however, can come in many shapes and varieties, including 4-string, 5-string, 7-string, fretted, and some with the upper bout removed entirely to allow easier playing in the higher positions. And, in fact, your acoustic violin can be "converted" into an electric by attaching either a microphone or a piezo pickup to the body. Most other electric violins use a solid body, just like most electric guitars (such as the familiar stratocaster)

While there are many electric violins on the market by large volume manufacturers, most of these just don't sound very good. You can find some of the more popular electric violins pictured below; all are recommended models.

Yamaha 4-String

Yamaha 4-string. In general, I am not a fan of mass produced instruments. Part of the Yamaha silent series, this model (SV-200) features a dual piezo pickup. This is supposed to improve the sensitivity of the instrument to the subtleties of your playing, especially dynamic range. Coming in at around $1000, this instrument is cheaper than the others I will review below. I thought the instrument was indeed responsive, certainly more so than previoys Yamaha instruments. The on-board pre-amp allows for some sound manipulation on the instrument itself rather than in a separate, detached unit. The down-side of this is that it increases the weight of the violin.

NS Designs 4-String

NS-Designs 4-String. NS Designs uses a proprietary piezo pickup that is designed to be very clean and sound more like an acoustic violin in its unprocessed state. While the model pictured is a 4-string, I experimented with a5-string model, and I thought that the neck was overly thick and the instrument rather heavy. Still, if you are looking for a clean sound, this might be the instrument for you. This model comes in at around $2,200.

Zeta Boyd Tinsley

Zeta has earned itself a lot of hype in part because Boyd Tinseley, of Dave Matthew's band, uses this model. In fact, it is called the "Boyd Tinsley." Zeta also uses a proprietary piezo pick-up that has a very characteristic sound. If you have ever heard Santana play guitar, then you probably recognize his distinctive sound that comes from the combination of his Paul Reed Smith guitar coupled with a Mesa Boogie amp. Most of the sound coming out of that amp, no matter how the sound is EQ'd sounds "Boogified" to me. Similarly, I felt playing on this instrument that my sound would get "Zeta'd" by the pick-up. A big downside to this zeta model is that it is quite heavy. This violin is priced at around $1,700.






 

Mark Wood 7 String Fretted

Mark Wood 7-string Fretted flying V. Mark wood recognized that trying to hold a 7-string fretted violin under the neck is quite difficult, due to the weight. Thus, he designed and patented a "flying v-shape" with a strap that fits around your torso and holds the violin up into a playing position. Though it can take some time to get used to, this design really does support the weight of the fiddle well. This model is fretted and make no mistake about it, this is a big adjustment for the classical player. In fact, if you have ever played a mandolin, you probably realize how much the frets can change things. Sliding and vibrato techniques are very difficult on a fretted instrument. are In my opinion, the frets are best for allowing guitar players and others to navigate around the usual requirement of pinpoint accuracy with finger placement which is necessary for playing in tune on the an acoustic violin. This model, which is the flagship instrument in his line of electric violins, is priced at $3500. He also makesd unfretted versions that are cheaper and preferable to some. He uses either Barbera or Schatten pickups, which are mass produced piezo pickeps that are used in many different electric violins.

Jordan 5-String

Jordan 5-string flamed wood. Mr. John Jordan makes custom electric violins in almost every material and combination of material, strings and frets that you can imagine. He used to work for Zeta but started his own design studio when he became disillusioned by Zeta's increasingly commercial attitude. Jordan handcrafts each instrument using his patented shape, which eliminates the peg-box and puts machined tuners near the bridge. This is designed to make the instrument lighter. Jordan is very much the luthier of electric instruments and many of his models, particularly the ones made of wood, are very attractive. Jordan uses a variety of pickups, including Zeta's proprietary model. In addition he likes the Barbera piezo pickup for a more "Stradivarius-like" sound, and recommends this pick-up for classical musicians. For rock, jazz and pop, he suggests using the darker, more "Guarneri-like" Ashworth piezo pick-up. Like most other electric violin makers, his 5-string unfretted is his most popular model. It seems to have a thinner neck than other electrics, such as the NS Design violin. This instrument comes in at around $2,300.

Acoustic Violin with Pickup

Acoustic Violin with Pickup. All of the violins described above are solid-body models. This means that the instrument has no resonating chamber and therefore produces little to no sound unless it is plugged in. Another way to create an "electric violin" is to replace the bridge with a piezo pickup bridge-mount that can be plugged in just like a solid body. The downside to this is that these pickups often do not sound as good, and feedback can be an issue. However, this option can sound quite nice and retains the shape and lightness of the acoustic violin. Common piezo models are the Fishman series and the L.R. Baggs. There are also several smaller "custom" companies that make these pickups, and it can be useful to try these if you don't like the sound of the Fishman/Baggs. This setup shares all of the same disadvantages as any other violin fitted with a piezo pickup.

Violin with AMT Microphone

Violin with Microphone. Pictured above is an AMT model microphone fitted to an ordinary acoustic violin, which extends into one of the f-holes. This is designed to accurately reproduce the classical musician's customary acoustic sound. The quality of the microphone is essential since feedback can be an issue, as can the quality of the sound. This is probably the best way, however, to reproduce your acoustic violin sound for increased volume or to plug-in to units that can manipulate the sound. They have individually designed microphones for dozens of instruments and are an excellent company.


Pickups: What all electric violins share is the need for an electronic pickup to transmit your playing to a unit capable of sound manipulation, such as a pre-amp or rack unit, and ultimately to another unit capable of sound production. The two major types of pick-ups in use in today's plugged-in instruments are piezo and electromagnetic. Piezo pickups are used almost exclusively for electric violins. They have certain characteristics that some players find less than ideal. While a bow change on an acoustic violin can be completely silent to the listener, the piezo pickup will always transmit bow changes and bow noise. The reason for this is that they are sensitive to pressure as their primary means of reproducing sound, and bow pressure is always variable. Also, piezo pick-ups have a tendency to sound fuzzy. Many different piezo pick-ups exist on the market, and some electric violin companies use their own proprietary models. The other type of pickup in use for electric violins is the electro-magnetic pickup. This is the pickup found in most guitars, and is considered the ideal form of sound transmission. While it is possible to build this type of pickup into an electric violin, it requires rather extensive modifications to the electric violin's internal design and is rarely used. Perhaps in the future this type of pickup will become more available.

Lexicon Sound Processor

Sound Manipulation: En route to reaching our ears, the electric violin's signal usually is passed through a unit (or more often several units) capable of sound manipulation. Many of the same devices used by electric guitar players may also be used for the violin. For instance, reverb and delay units by Lexicon can provide warmth and depth of sound, while distortion boxes can allow the violin sound to approximate that of the guitar (a la Jimmy Hendrix playing America at Woodstock). There are literally hundreds of different devices, including pedals, that can manipulate the sound. Below is one of Lexicon's top of the line reverb rack units.  Computers are also increasingly used for sound manipulation, although the quality may not yet equal the finest rack units.

L.R. Baggs Pre-amp

Pre-amps: For electric violins employing a pickup, a pre-amp is necessary to intensify the signal from your violin, and to allow you to EQ the sound. One example of a popular preamp is the L.R. Baggs Para Acoustic DI, pictured below. Some electric violins also have on-board pre-amps.

Fishman Loudbox 100

Ampfliers: Further sound manipulation and signal intensification occurs when the signal is passed through an amplifier. Because most amps work best with mid and low frequency tones, it can be difficult to find a good amp for the electric violin, and even then it is usually necessary to spend a lot of time playing with the EQ, or you can purchase a "pre-amp" with more controls. Pictured left is a popular Fishman amplifier, the Loudbox 100. One concern with amplifiers is that each leaves its own imprint on your sound.

Yamaha PA System

PA systems: For a more true reproduction of your sound, a PA system with speakers can also be used. The sound can still be EQ'd with a personal PA system like the Yamaha unit pictured below.








Sound Production: Finally, the signal, after passing through the different sound manipulation devices, is broadcast to our ears by speakers. Usually, these are built into the amp. You can also add additional speakers to create a stereo effect.

If you are looking to more or less duplicate your acoustic sound, playing electric violin may not be very satisfying to you. But for participating in a band, it allows the violin to speak with the same volume as the other instruments, and to alter the sound to fit in better with a rock or pop style of music.

That being said, electric violin usually requires a potentially rather expensive foray into electronic equipment, which can be a lot of fun but also difficult since the sound you are searching for may take a lot of time to find, and may require testing a lot of different gear. Finding "your" sound can be a journey. Some of the more neat things you can do is use a 5-string, which adds a "c string," or employ an octave pedal, which can drop your pitch an entire octave. Or you can play with distortion or a wah-wah pedal. And, while excellent technique is vital for classical music, electric violin can be more forgiving.

I do play electric violin and have an extensive collection of gear, including several different amps and lots of boxes for sound manipulation. It can be a fun way to participate in groups where ordinary acoustic violin has traditionally been absent.